My stylist always trims my hair every four to six weeks. I'm not seeing any new length, and this has been going on for
a year now. What's Up with this?
It's possible that your ends are damaged to the point where your stylist is trimming off as much hair as you've grown.
If you're damaging your hair between salon visits (especially the ends by using heating appliances too often or
incorrectly), she may have to trim or cut your hair frequently. Talk to your stylist about your situation. Does she
even know that you want your hair to grow out? She may just be cutting your hair to maintain a certain style.
Communication is key. Ask her what you should do between salon visits to keep your hair healthy, so that less hair
needs to be cut (or trimmed).
I constantly wear cornrows and recently I've begun to notice a receding hairline. Could this be associated with hair
breakage?
In most cases breakage is due to the constant wear of braids, which can cause the hair to break and become weak.
Constant tension weakens the cuticles and cortex of your hair, making it prone to breakage and weakness. We
recommend you try giving your hair a longer break in between braiding. Another good habit to practice is to have
your braids moisturized and conditioned. A good line of products to try is by Organic Root Stimulator.
WHAT TO DO EXTERNALLY:
1. Stimulate follicles by using the fingertips to massage the scalp every day (in a circular motion). This will
promote circulation and reduce the closure of hair follicles.
2. Use shampoos and conditioners that have protein and keratin, as they match the nutrients naturally found in
your hair.
3. Deep condition once a week and always use a leaving conditioner. Also, always make sure you rinse shampoo
and conditioner out thoroughly.
4. Trim your ends every six weeks. Getting rid of dead hair and split ends will allow your hair to look healthy.
5. Use natural oils (jojoba oil, which is closest to the natural oil your scalp produces, basil or rosemary) instead of
pomades that can clog the scalp's pores.
6. Brush or comb the hair before shampooing to stimulate your scalp and open its pores.
7. Never relax hair immediately after wearing braids.
8. Shampoo with warm water, which opens your scalp's pores, then rinse with cool water.
9. Prevent breakage of natural hair by applying a detangler or leave-in conditioner before combing.
10. Always have a deep conditioning treatment at least one week before having a chemical service.
BODY HEALTH
Please advise the client to shampoo the hair every 7 to 10 days to eliminate inedication build-up on the scalp and
hair. She must drink twice as much water during this time to flush the body of the medications and replenish needed
moisture. Taking an antioxidant will help the body rid itself of unneeded pollutants. During this time it may be
necessary to reduce the degree of straightening with relaxers to approximately 85% to help maintain more elasticity and
integrity of the hair. Stress the importance of healthy eating habits with high degrees of fresh fruits and leafy green
vegetables and always encourage taking a daily dose of multivitamins.
HAIR GROWTH MYTHS
Here are some myths about hair growth:
1. Close clipping, shaving, trimming, cutting or singeing have and effect on the rate of hair growth. This is not
true.
2. The application of oils increases hair growth. This is not true. Oils lubricate the hair shaft, but they do not
feed the hair.
3. Hair grows after death. This is not true. The flesh and skin contract, thus there is the appearance of hair
growth.
4. Singeing the hair seals in the natural oil. This is not true.
Control Biracial Hair
Q: I have a 3 year old girl. Her hair is out of control. She is biracial (black and white) her hair is so curly and frizzy it’
s really hard to manage. She doesn't want to keep it done and if we do get it brushed and styled as soon as she lies
down her hair just goes to hell. She is actually getting embarrassed about it to the point that she insists on wearing
shirts and sweatshirts with hoods to cover her hair. She said she wants to cut it so I need some ideas on how to cut it
so she doesn’t look too boyish but it is easy to manage. She has had her hair cut previously and now that it is
growing back it seems to be growing out instead of down. Help!
A: The biggest recommendation I can make is that you need to make sure that you are conditioning your daughter’s
hair properly. She needs to have a rinse-through conditioner used in her hair after every shampoo, and she needs to
have a spray-on, leave-in conditioner used on her hair every day. This will help to keep the hair manageable and soft.
Many parents of biracial children opt to have their children’s hair (especially daughters’ hair) braided, or they
learn to braid the hair themselves in order to save money. These braids can often be worn for weeks at a time and
proper care techniques can be learned from the stylists in order to keep the scalp and hair clean and healthy.
Before you shear the child’s hair off, I would recommend starting a deep conditioning regimen, using a daily spray-
on, leave-in conditioner and check into the braiding options. If these don’t work for you, you might as a last resort
look into one of the relaxers designed for use on children’s hair. These are extremely gentle formulas and are designed
to soften and tame the unruly hair in children and leave it smoother and easier to manage.
Then, after trying and or dismissing these options, you may want to speak to your local salon stylist about his or
her recommendation for a cut that will leave your daughter’s hair feminine but manageable.
Brittle & Dull African Hair
Q: I have Short African Hair. My hair is very brittle at the ends and it's also very dull, and breaks very easily. What
can I do to make my hair shiny and healthy?
A: : It sounds like your hair is suffering from dehydration and needs moisture. Commonly, ethnic-African hair tends
to be porous, which means it will lose moisture more rapidly through daily exposure to sun, wind, environmental
changes and heat styling.
Hair that is porous has its cuticle layer raised, which is why the hair looks dull. The accompanying loss of
moisture caused by the porosity of the hair is why the hair becomes brittle and breaks so easily.
The first thing you need to do is look for a shampoo and conditioner that are both gentle and offer deep
moisturizing formulas. Look for products designed specifically for ethnic-African hair. You can also select products
designed to care for chemically relaxed hair, because while your hair may not be chemically treated, its condition is
the same as if it has been.
You can also look for natural oils and smoothing serums. The natural oils will soften the hair and lock in
moisture, while the smoothing serums help to flatten and seal the cuticle layer to make the hair look shiny and
healthier.
The key here is to protect and nurture the hair while it grows. Unfortunately, when the hair is damaged, the only
changes that can be affected are cosmetic – surface changes. We can however, work to prevent further damage to new
hair growth, which means that as the hair grows out we can slowly trim away the damaged ends and eventually have a
head full of healthy hair.
You say that your hair is short. Depending on how short, you can see a return to healthier and more attractive
hair in as little as 3-6 months. Remember that the hair grows at a rate of ½-inch per month on average, so if the hair
is three inches in length, you can fully replace the hair in 6 months.
Flat Iron African-American Hair
Q: Hello. How many times a week can an African-American woman flat iron her hair?
A: If the African-American woman has taken proper care of her hair and it is healthy and in good condition, AND if
the right styling products and appliances are used in the proper manner, then she can flat iron her hair every day as
needed to keep the style she desires. The flat iron should be only as hot as is necessary to create smooth straight hair.
Any excess heat can cause damage to the hair by leeching away moisture.
I know African-American women who flat iron their hair daily, and have beautifully healthy hair. The fact is that
they take very good care of their hair. They condition the hair daily, keep careful control of the heat settings of their
flat iron, and use protective products to prevent damage from heat styling.
It’s important to remember that when you use a flat iron, there should not be steam or smoke during the pressing
process. If there is steam, then the hair being ironed is not sufficiently dry for flat iron styling. If there is smoke or
the smell of scorched hair, then the iron is too hot for use on the hair and should be adjusted.
If your hair is showing signs of dryness, frizz, and/or breakage, then your hair is damaged and should not be flat-
ironed without very special care being taken. It may also be advisable in some cases to forego flat iron styling until
the hair has been restored to some level of condition and health.
Thermal Ceramic Hair Iron Stove
Q: I have African-American hair and I haven’t had a perm for 3 months to allow my hair to grow out, but now I
think it’s becoming unbearable to manage because it gets tangled. I was wondering: (1) If I were to get my hair
straightened by using a Thermal Ceramic Hair Iron Stove would that be good for my hair? (2) How many times
should I use it on my hair? (3) Is a flat iron or the ceramic stove better? Which one would be better for my hair? (4)
Is using olive oil for my hair good, because I was told with the products hair suppliers make they use a lot of
fragrances and chemicals to make it smell good, and it can cause headaches.
A: Using any heated hair appliance can be safe on the hair as long as you know how to use it properly. The main
difference between the flat iron and the Iron Stoves is that the stove is used to heat the implements that are used to
straighten the hair, while the flat iron is generally an “all-in-one” proposition.
The hair iron should be carefully monitored before you apply it to the hair. Make sure the hair iron is not too hot,
or the hair can be damaged (burned) badly. Most women prefer a flat iron (electric) because it is much easier and
simpler to manage. In fact, I know of very few people outside of professional salons who use the hair iron stoves, and
most of the salons I know use electric flat irons and curling irons simply because they are more convenient.
With any heat appliance used to style the hair, use it only as much as necessary to achieve the style you want. And
be aware of signs that your hair is becoming overstressed or damaged by the styling appliance if you choose to use it
every day. Use deep conditioners and daily, leave-in conditioners to protect the hair against heat styling damage.
Also, only use the iron at a temperature hot enough to achieve the result you want and no hotter. Check our articles
on thermal appliance styling here.
As for the use of olive oil on your hair, I say “congratulations” on finding a natural alternative to hair care
products. In fact, olive oil has been used in Africa as a hair moisturizer and skin conditioner for centuries. The best
way to use it is as a weekly hot oil treatment. Warm a half-cup of extra virgin olive oil and apply it to the hair, then
cover the hair with plastic. Leave the oil on the hair for 30 minutes to one hour, then shampoo and condition the
hair and style as normal.
You are correct in that many manufacturers use fragrances and chemicals in their hair products to help the hair
smell good, but most people have no issue with the scents unless they are sensitive to them. It isn’t necessarily a bad
thing on the part of the manufacturer’s since many of the fragrances used these days are derived from herbal essences
and natural oils.
Growing Healthy Hair
Q: I am a black woman who would like some tips on how to care for my natural hair. I have been having issues with
trying to get it to grow. It is quite uneven and parts of it look like I’ve take a razor and cut it off. And each time I
wash it and assess it, nothing seems to have changed, my hair just doesn’t seem to want to grow. So I was wondering
how I can take care of this uneven hair problem and get my hair back to a healthy growing course.
A: Well, one of the first things you may want to do is see your doctor for a check up. This will allow you to make
sure there is no medical reason for your hair’s apparent unwillingness to grow. There are medical conditions that can
effect hair growth. Certain medications will also affect the way the hair grows, and if you are taking any medication,
you should ask your doctor if possible side-effects include those that affect hair growth.
You also need to evaluate your diet. Growing healthy hair requires a balanced diet that is high in protein (since
the hair is made up of proteins). Make sure you are getting the proper nutrition. There are a number of vitamin
supplements on the market that claim to help you grow stronger, longer hair, but apart from the general benefits of
vitamin supplements to the diet, these have no proven benefit in growing the hair. You will be better served to use a
basic multi-vitamin and well balanced diet.
Aside from this, you should make sure to be caring for your hair properly. The hair should be conditioned every
day, whether you wash it or not. In addition, weekly deep conditioning is good to help strengthen the hair and keep
it free of split ends. Furthermore, remember to treat your hair gently. Always use a wide tooth comb whenever
possible as brushes and finer-tooth combs can lead to stresses on the hair and breakage.
Be sure to look for signs of damage (frizz, rough texture, signs of breakage) and address these issues whenever they
are encountered. Silicone based detanglers and sheen products can help you in combing the hair to prevent over-
stressing.
African Hair and Dandruff Problems
Q: I have short, African-American hair and really bad dandruff problems. I had a perm/chemical straightener in my
hair. I need help. What do you suggest?
A: You don't specify whether you had the problem with dandruff before the chemical straightener or after, so let's
approach it both ways. Real dandruff is generally characterized by largish, greasy flakes and is associated with a fungus
called Malassezia (formerly called pityrosporum). Fine, powdery flakes with an itchy, tight-feeling scalp are generally
symptomatic of dry scalp. Chemical hair treatments (like straighteners and perms) can dry the scalp causing itchiness
and flakes. If you had dandruff before the straightening, it is likely that the chemical process has only aggravated the
condition.
Either way, the treatments available for dandruff can be useful in combating dry scalp as well. Look for products
containing zinc pyrithione, salicylic acid, selenium sulfide, ketoconazole, or tar. These are common, but effective
ingredients for treating dandruff, as they cleanse the scalp and will kill any associated fungi. Some of these ingredients
also help to open the pores and promote a balancing of the production of oils of the scalp.
Select a product and use it, being sure to leave it on the scalp for 5 minutes to allow the ingredients to have their
full effect, then rinse thoroughly. Lathering twice is recommended to most efficiency. Afterward, condition the hair as
you normally would but be sure to use a moisture-rich conditioning agent as these products can dry the hair. Use of a
leave-in conditioner is also advised, particularly a spray-on conditioner as it can be targeted to the hair itself.
Use the shampoo daily for a week, and if the flakes are still present, try a different product/formula. If the
shampoo you selected does seem to be effective for you, you can reduce the frequency of shampooing to two-to-three
times a week for a few weeks, and taper off to a weekly shampooing if the reduced usage seems to remain effective.
However, if after trying several products with no results, or if the flaking and itching worsens, or you develop
inflammation or redness of the scalp, consult your physician. There are illnesses that can cause flaking and dryness of
the scalp, and they can become serious if left untreated.
Hair and Working Out
Q: I work out at least 2 to 3 times a week and work up a pretty good sweat. I sweat in my head and my hair is
normally dried out by the end of the week. I have pretty coarse hair and wanted to know, as an African American,
what measures should I take to care for my hair while working out and thereafter? Thanks, in advance.
A: You need to make sure you are cleansing the hair and neutralizing the pH of the sweat being left on the hair and
scalp. The salts and proteins in sweat can break down as they dry becoming acidic and can result in drying out the
hair and sometimes irritating the scalp. Even in the best of cases, unless you do something to remove the sweat build-
up after a workout, you can have some pretty bad odors as a result.
One thing I can recommend, since shampooing frequently can be a problem is that you try using a rinse-through
conditioner. The formulas of conditioners are usually alkaline enough to strip away the daily accumulation or
production of sweat and oils, and it will help to keep your coarse hair soft and manageable.
If using the conditioner after working out isn’t sufficient for cutting the sweat and oil build-up, try using a
watered-down shampoo rinse to strip away the offending sweat and salts. This only applies if you are dealing with
unbound hairstyles. If you wear your hair in braids of locks, you will want to consult with your stylist about what
methods to use so that you can prevent unraveling your hair.
Another idea for dealing with post-workout hair is to use light spray oil shine enhancers with a pleasant fragrance
to “freshen” the hair. Some makers even have new hair freshening sprays for people who work in polluting
environments to help them eliminate the problem odors from working in bars and restaurants and other places where
there are specific smells associated with the locale.
How To Reverse Hair Loss
These are helpful tips to help regenerate hair follicles, but they do not cure any underlying conditions, or stress-
related hair loss.
* Try drinking this - blend bananas with honey, yoghurt & low-fat milk. A drink rich in biotin can help keep your
crowning glory firmly rooted.
* Take dietary supplements such as Vitamin B6, zinc & saw palmetto. Supplements are useful when you can't get
enough from natural food sources.
* Invert your head while you shampoo & massage your scalp. This helps promote blood circulation to the head.
* Eliminate stress or else it can be disastrous to your precious hair!
* Get enough sleep.
Sister 2 Sister Hair Kare
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